Giving Your Spyder Eyes
By
Aaron Grubin - OSOK #10
Created
April 8, 1999 (Originally published for the Spyder Owners Group)
Well the new season is almost upon us, and
we're all trying to figure out what new mod we're gonna get for our Spyder. Some
of us have chosen to add a sight to our marker, and that’s where I come in.
Being an ex-soldier in the Canadian Armed Forces, a hunter, and a competitive
shooter, I’ve been exposed to a wide variety of sights
There has been some discussion on the web
about paintball markers not being accurate enough to warrant sights. They say
the sight is too accurate for the gun. Well, news flash. Neither are bullets.
When a bullet is fired out of a gun, there is some degree of random error. The
type of rifling in the barrel, the weight of the bullet the length of the
barrel, the speed at which the bullet leaves the barrel, all have an effect on
the accuracy of the shot. The sight, when properly used, is generally more
accurate than the gun. It points in a straight line to the target. Paintball
markers are the same. Make of paint, barrel type, and bolt, all contribute to
the accuracy of the shot. When sighting the marker, make several shots all
aiming at the same spot. This is called grouping. Setting the sight to the
centre of the grouping is called zeroing. If you want to be accurate, it's the
only way to do it. Get a friend who hunts to help you with this if you need to.
There are four types of sights I'll be
covering. Telescopic, often called scopes, Open Sights, Reflective, red dot
type, and Laser Sights. Each type has it's use and picking one out for your 'gun
all depends on your style of play. Telescopic sights are best at long ranges in
bright light. Open sights are good at medium ranges in all light levels. Well,
except night. Reflective sights are good from medium to short ranges and are
useful in any light condition. Even night. Laser sights are useful only at short
ranges and in low light levels.
The
Telescopic Sight.
Telescopic sights were designed to hit targets
at long ranges. They use magnifying glasses to work like a telescope to zoom in
on a target to place a shot just where you want it. Laws of physics being what
they are, if you magnify an image, it will not be as bright unless the lenses
gather up more light than the eye needs to see. (That's why space telescopes are
huge.) The smaller the lenses, the darker the images will be. As a result, if
your target is in the shadows on an overcast day, you may not be able to see
them properly to tag them. The cheap little scopes they sell at department
stores are fine on a bright sunny day, but in the woods, it's a different story.
Because you're looking through a telescope, and lining up the cross hairs, it
takes a little longer to line up a shot. But if you've got the scope set up
properly, you'll hit what you're aiming at. Problem with a scope is that it's
difficult to hit a moving target with one. Depending on the speed they're
running at, the proper lead angle may be out of your field of vision. I'm not
saying it's impossible, just difficult. Another problem is tunnel vision. I'm
sure we've all experienced tunnel vision in a firefight. You're concentrating on
an opposing player when his buddy comes around from the side and flanks you. Now
that you're looking through a telescope with one eye shut, it's even worse. All
you see is about a foot and a half or so. If you play a sniper's game, taking
shots at distances most players wouldn't consider, a scope might be for you.
The
Open Sights.
There are a number of types of open sights
available on the market. There are peep sights, blade sights, and dove tail
sights. 32 Degree sniper sights and HI VIZ sights are also different kinds of
open sights. Open sights are good for medium to close range work and I've seen
them on the speedwell tournament fields. Since they don't need to
Reflective
Sights.
A paintball's range is limited. Usually
players are shooting from less than 100 feet. At these ranges reflective sights
are excellent. For the uninitiated reflective sights project a cross, or a dot,
or some little figure onto a piece of clear plastic or glass and that's what you
line up with your opponent. This is the type of sight I use. They are good for
medium to short ranges and in all light levels, even at night because they light
up. The major bonus here is that for the majority of units, you can have both
eyes open. No tunnel vision, no loss of depth perception. Since you still have
both eyes open, it's easier to judge distances and you're going to have an
easier time eliminating that player who just pulled your flag. Depending on the
type and maker, they are reasonably durable. The one I use was made in Russia,
and I've hit it several times with paint from my Spyder and dropped it. It's
still lined up. You only have to line up your target, your dot, and your eye so
target acquiry is easy and quick. Accuracy depends on putting your eye in the
same place all the time. If you move your head around, the dot will move with
you even if your 'gun hasn't. Unfortunately like most cool toys for big boys and
girls, these need batteries. Most players who use sights end up with a
reflective sight.
Laser Sights.
I can't in good conscience suggest these to
any one, and I'll tell you why. Laser sights project a very bright beam of light
in a very small area. If it hits a person's eyes, they can be damaged. The beam
enters the eye and is focussed in an even smaller area on the retina and burns
it. Arc welders call this Eye Flash and have to wear very dark lenses to work.
For this reason, lasers are banned on most fields. Laser pointers have even been
banned in some school districts in Canada, and if you point one at someone's
eyes here in Ontario, you can be charged with assault. Now that that's out of
the way, back to the practical stuff. Laser sights are best used at short to
point blank range and work only in low light to darkness. Outdoors, they're a
waste of time and batteries. Lasers suck back batteries like I suck back cans of
Coke. (Packed a full case in my pack on exercise more than once!) If there is
any dust, fog, or smoke in the air, you now have a neat little red line,
pointing right to you. Forget trying to hit a moving target with one of these,
if the beam is on the running player, then the ball will hit behind the player.
You can't aim ahead of the person; the beam has to hit something to show up. But
if the target is standing still, they're as good as out. It's fast and simple to
aim. Put the dot where you want the ball to go. Unless the person is hiding
behind a little grass then the beam hits that, and the sight is useless. Tunnel
vision isn't a problem, both your eyes are open and you don't even need to line
the 'gun up with your eye. Like I said before, they are tactically a bad idea.
Front line military units the world over use most types of sights on their
personal weapons except laser sights. The only ones who do are police and
counter terrorist units. They're dangerous and impractical for the paintballer's
purposes.
Chose a sight that's right for your price
range and style of play. Shop around. You'll be amazed at what you'll find.
Mounting the sight depends on what kind of sight you have and where you want it.
Now it's all up to you. Good luck and good hunting.
Type of Sight |
Effective Range |
Useful Light Levels |
Durability |
Target Acquisition Speed |
Hit a Moving Target |
Tunnel Vision? |
|
Telescopic |
Long to Medium (30+ yd.) |
Daylight -Dusk Overcast -Shadow |
Medium Spray on the lens reduces visibility, direct hit may knock off alignment. |
Slow but simple. Put the crosshairs where you want the ball. |
Increasing difficulty with decreasing range. |
Yes. The field of vision of the scope is all you see. |
Good for the Sniper style of play. Can't recommend for speedball. I tried. |
Open |
Medium to Short (15-50 yd.) |
All but night. |
Very. Direct hit to the sight is no problem. |
Good, but have to line up 4 things. |
Easy (provided you can hit a moving target) |
Not as bad as a scope. |
Most common for hunting. Standard on lots of markers and you can even build your own. |
Reflective |
Medium to Short (15-50 yd.) |
All. Even Night |
Depends on maker, but generally good. |
Good. Only 3 things to line up. Have to keep the eye in the same place for each shot. |
Easy (See above) |
No, depending on maker and shooting style. |
The type mounted on my Spyder. Unfortunately uses batteries. |
Laser |
Short to Point Blank below 15 yd. |
Low light to dark, only. |
Depends on maker, but generally not too good. |
Rapid. Put the red dot where you want to hit. |
Can't. Spray and pray. If you put the dot on the target, the ball will land behind. |
No. Don't even need to line up eye. |
Do Not Recommend. Banned on most fields, can damage other players' eyes, suck down batteries, any smoke or dust will immediately draw a line to you, and it's disrupted by foliage. |